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Winter Film
Signs of life amid Hollywood’s now-fabled year-end rush into doom and gloom: DAVE SHULMAN reminisces with Big Fish director Tim Burton about the best and worst date movies ever; ELLA TAYLOR investigates the serial-killer drama Monster, and JUDITH LEWIS interviews its talented writer-director, Patty Jenkins; SCOTT FOUNDAS finds Peter Jackson’s epic Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King a fit closing to the Tolkien franchise, and A. Dean Bell’s What Alice Found a worthy American chamber drama; JOHN PATTERSON deems P.J. Hogan’s Peter Pan one of the best kids’ films of this or any other year; MARC COOPER attests to the historical importance of Errol Morris’ documentary The Fog of War, while FOUNDAS talks to Morris about getting former U.S. Secretary of Defense Robert McNamara to speak candidly about Vietnam.

Also: CHUCK WILSON’s inner critic takes a vacation; TAYLOR on Anthony Minghella’s Cold Mountain and Vadim Perelman’s House of Sand and Fog; FOUNDAS on Mike Newell’s Mona Lisa Smile and Nigel Cole’s Calendar Girls; ROBERT ABELE on the superhero spoof The Hebrew Hammer; ERNEST HARDY on the high-school comedy Love Don’t Cost a Thing; and HAZEL-DAWN DUMPERT on Wheel of Time, Werner Herzog’s documentary about the Dalai Lama.

News

Digging Out Post-Saddam: Saddam Hussein has emerged from his hole. ADAM DAVIDSON, on the streets of Baghdad, finds complex emotions marking the end of Saddam’s reign. MARC COOPER urges the left to celebrate the dictator’s demise. HAROLD MEYERSON cautions Joe Lieberman to stop the cannibal act for the good of the Democratic Party.

Has the CIA Unmasked Daniel Pearl’s Killer?: BERNARD-HENRI LÉVY accuses the U.S. of covering up for Pakistan’s mistakes.

More Than a Food FIGHT: The supermarket strike has become a staple of Southern California life. But the future is filled with foreboding over a less-than-successful strike and a changing industry. BY ROBERT GREENE

Popping the Cork on the Spending Cap: It was a good week for Gov. Arnold and his new friends in the Democratic Party. But the big surprise is who lost: the hardcore Republicans. HOWARD BLUME looks at the new rules of play in Sacramento.

P.I. for All: JIM CROGAN examines a case in the career of sleuth to the stars Anthony Pellicano. Big surprise: He seemed to be working for both sides — the defense and the prosecution.

STYLE
Coat couture: PLEASANT GEHMAN wraps with Clothing Whore designer Dana Pfeffer.

 

DECEMBER 19 - 25, 2003

Wrap Star
by Pleasant Gehman

Velvet cloak
Model: Flynn (Advance L.A.)
Hair & makeup: Veronica Chanel
Photos by Jack Gould


“I adore the old Hollywood movie-studio designers, all the special touches they did on clothes,” says Dana Pfeffer, who designs a line called Clothing Whore. “Edith Head, Travis Benton, Adrian — the way they made clothes move.” Her dramatic bias-cut coats, robes and capes are tailored with sweeping entrances and exits in mind: Think starlet in a black-and-white newsreel stepping out of a limo and disappearing in a burst of flashbulbs, or a rock & roll goddess flash-trashing her way through an MTV video.

Pfeffer’s interpretations of vintage glamour aren’t limited to just her line. She made ceremonial robes for the movie Birth Rite, and recently did some costumes for a yet-to-be-released film starring Karen Black, who plays a chanteuse in a seedy Midwestern carnival sideshow. Pfeffer — who’s been obsessed with movies since she was a girl growing up in Kansas City, Missouri — designed and made Black’s costumes.

The work of Stephen Sprouse and Jean-Paul Gaultier has also fueled her creativity. “I used to make little punk rock outfits by hand for my Barbie dolls,” she says. “They had evening gowns and dresses and stuff, but the clothes they came with were never cool enough. I always liked to combine the unexpected — putting together elements you wouldn’t think of, making things you couldn’t find just anywhere, combining fabrics in unusual ways.”

By the time Pfeffer, who taught herself to sew at age 6, was old enough to take home ec, she used class time to make one-of-a-kind pieces for herself and her friends. In the mid-’90s she moved to San Francisco, where she attended the Pacific Design Institute, taking classes in draping, pattern making and marketing. However, she didn’t even complete a full year: Word of her design skill spread fast, and she was inundated with custom orders.

Pfeffer, who moved to L.A. four years ago, started a Web site to sell clothes to those who couldn’t come in for fittings. She constructs the clothes from the ground up, draping muslin patterns, and finishing items by hand-sewing in linings, sewing down shoulder pads and covering buttons. She’s also been known to make some wildly avant pieces, such as her “octopus corset,” constructed of bathtub mats turned inside-out so the rows of suction cups are on the outside.



Velvet dress with pearl buttons
and cotton collar and cuffs
with trim


Usually, though, she mixes up materials in a more functional way, such as her princess-cut riding coats made of blanket fleece, created with a high, deep pleat in back so the coat swirls out with every step, but the fabric is machine-washable and so cuddly it could double as a bathrobe. Recently, she’s branched out into doing men’s clothes such as Matrix-inspired long coats.

Her next step will be to expand from what is now a one-woman operation, making the move to designing madame from clothing whore. “I just liked that name,” she laughs. “Clothes have been my lifelong addiction, though it still took me almost two years to tell my Bible-thumping aunt the name of my business.”

The Clothing Whore, www.theclothingwhore.com


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